Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Paree!

Martin & I are now esconced in our very petite apartment on the Rue Mouffetard. It's up four flights of stairs, and then there's a spiral staircase leading up to the bed/bath. It's very cute though, and this is what you can see from the window above our bed.




There's the Pantheon on the right and a rather famous metal structure in the distance.

Today we've just wandered around - we walked up to the Seine, and then along to Shakespeare & Company. It's closed until February 1, possibly because of the death of its famous owner George Whitman (at the age of 98) in December. We had lunch at one of our favourites - Crepes a GoGo.

We've also visited Les Arenes de Lutece, a Roman amphitheatre dating back to the first century AD.




There was a statue of a woman reading which I rather liked.





We've been playing Count the Smartcars - they're very popular here. You can park them just about anywhere!




Saturday, January 28, 2012

Library lions and Burke's Law






On our last day in New York City, we visited the wonderful New York Public Library. It's fabulous as a piece of architecture, and has some amazing items in its collections, including a draft of the Declaration of Independence and the walking stick Virginia Woolf left on the riverbank when she drowned herself. The library turned 100 last year, and still lives up to its founding goal - to make information freely available to everyone. Somewhere yesterday, I saw a quote by a NYPL librarian which said (I'm paraphrasing) that all you need to have to be a member of the NYPL is a sense of curiosity.




The section of East 41st Street leading to the Library is called Library Way, and has quotes from famous writers on brass plaques set into the pavement. How can you not love a city that venerates libraries?

Afterwards, Kati went off for one last bout of shopping, while Martin and I took ourselves to the Museum of Television and Radio. You get to sit and watch all sorts of shows from TV's history. I saw the opening sequences to Burke's Law and The Saint (I could have watched the full episodes but we were limited for time), revisited Love on a Rooftop and That's Life (whatever happened to E.J. Peaker?), and watched an episode of Moonlighting. Ah, Bruce! Martin of course lost himself in the Dean Martin show.




Sadly, it was then time to make our way to JFK. This time we took an official yellow cab, and were charged the correct amount.

We left New York, determined to go back again. It's truly a wonderful place - just about everything I can think of to say about it sounds trite and cliched. But I will say that it's just like in the movies, only better! And New Yorkers are great people - really friendly, and very polite and helpful.




Martin and I are back in London again and Kati is on her way home to her Jesse. We just wandered over to the Borough Markets and bought some delicious things for our dinner. After five days walking around New York plus another flight, we're taking it easy tonight!



Thursday, January 26, 2012

The Met, Soho and the Highline





This morning we set off again to go to the Met. This time it was open. We each set off to enjoy the exhibits. There's a great collection of 19th century European art, most of which I completely missed somehow. I did see some great stuff - Goyas, El Grecos, Vermeers, and some wonderful John Singer Sargent paintings in the new American wing. The Met is a bit like the Louvre - too much to take in, so museum fatigue sets in. I would love to come back and see more.




After the obligatory trip to the gift shop, we left and took the subway down to Soho. We had lunch at Lombardi's, which apparently was NYC's first pizzeria. The pizza was really, really good. Revived, we did a little shopping nearby at Kate's Paperie and Purl Soho. Kati had clearly found her shopping rhythm and decided to continue, so Martin and I found our way to the Highline. Formerly a disused railway track, this is now an elevated park which winds its way above the city on the west side of Manhattan. It's wonderful - you can walk almost 20 blocks without having to stop for traffic lights. It's also remarkably quiet up there above the traffic. The plantings aren't much to look at in January, but I can imagine they would look really beautiful in the springtime.




We finished the day with dinner at the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station. This is a New York institution, so it was a fitting choice for our last night in the city. The food (like every other meal I've had here) was terrific.

I really wish we could stay here longer - there is so much in this city, and we haven't really even scratched the surface.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

The green lady on the island and King Kong

This morning we took the Staten Island ferry to Staten Island - and straight back again. This must be one of the best free trips anywhere in the world. You get to sail on New York Harbour right past the Statue of Liberty - there are also great views of the Manhattan skyline.





When we got back to Manhattan, we walked up Broadway through the financial district (passing the Occupy Wall Street protesters along the way) to the Ground Zero site. I had hoped to see the memorial, but it seemed to be all closed off and requiring a pass to visit it, so we went over the road to Century 21 (a department store which sells discounted designer goods.) The irony of luxury consumer goods produced by the capitalist system being flogged for cheap right in the very heart of capitalism .....well, maybe it isn't so ironical after all.

Later on, we wandered up to look at the Brooklyn Bridge




and then ended up at the Empire State Building. The view from the 86th floor observatory is truly unforgettable. No King Kong sitings though.




I don't know where New Yorkers get their reputation for being pushy and rude. Everyone we've dealt with has been very friendly, and unfailingly polite. For such a huge busy city, people (and drivers) actually seem to be patient and quite relaxed.

Today was also a day for running into other Aussies - there were several on the ferry, and then more again at the Empire State Building. The accent is instantly recognisable - we heard someone asking "is this a quarta, mate?" I took this photo the day we arrived - I swear I didn't write this message, but I share the sentiment!





Tuesday, January 24, 2012

New York day #2

On Sunday evening, we had dinner at Cipriani's restaurant at Grand Central Station. What a fabulous location - it's on a balcony overlooking the main concourse. You can sit and take in the beauty of this amazing building and look down and watch the hustle and bustle (relatively quiet because it was Sunday.) The food is great too!




Yesterday, we set off planning to go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Once again, we should have consulted the guide book - it's closed on Mondays! Unfazed, we wandered off into Central Park and found the Alice in Wonderland statue





and Strawberry Fields.






The park was still covered in snow ( we saw groups of schoolkids being led in to park, where they promptly set about having snowball fights) and the lakes are all icy.





The weather has warmed up a little (it's no longer below zero) and it drizzled most of yesterday. We spent the afternoon visiting Bloomingdales and Times Square.




At Rockefeller Plaza Kati went off shopping, while Martin and I enjoyed a very nice little Pinot Grigio in a very nice little wine bar.





I think I could get to really love this city!

Monday, January 23, 2012

Snow!

We arrived in New York on Friday afternoon - after a very efficient and polite experience going through Customs & Border Protection, we got swindled by a bogus cab driver. He charged us more than double the going rate for our cab drive to Manhattan. I thought it was a bit suspicious but it was only later when I read the travel guide where it warned about drivers soliciting people leaving the airport and not driving registered yellow cabs, that I knew for sure. Ah well, we live and learn.

Other than that, we are having a great time! I got the snow I wished for - New York got four inches of snow the night before we arrived, and everywhere was carpeted with the beautiful white stuff. Martin and I walked all the way up to Central Park yesterday afternoon (21 blocks), and the park looked absolutely magical.








On the walk back down Fifth Avenue, we saw quite a few famous places. I just happened to look up while we were waiting to cross the street, and saw one of my favourite buildings.




This morning, we got our Metrocards and figured out how to use the subway. We went back to Central Park, to see the snow again (it's a real novelty when you live in Perth!)



Since then, we've visited a flea market in Chelsea and then Macy's. Martin also got to see one of his sacred sites.




We're only in New York for 5 days. There is so much to see here - it's nowhere near long enough.

Saturday, January 21, 2012

A drizzly day in London

We're enjoying our first full day in London. It's grey and drizzly but not terribly cold. We're staying down near Tower Bridge - I haven't been to this end of London for years. This morning we walked along the Thames from the Tower of London all the way up to Whitehall. It's a lovely walk - I love the names of the streets : Crutched Friars, Savage Gardens, Pudding Lane, Stew Lane.




We got to Whitehall just in time to see the Changing of the Guard. The Horse Guards got replaced by the Life Guards. The distinction between the two is not that apparent to me, to the horror of my dear husband.






Next we wandered up to Trafalgar Square, and had morning tea in the cafe at the National Gallery. I couldn't resist the Jammy Dodgers - yum! There's an electronic display in Trafalgar Square counting down the days, hours, minutes and seconds until the opening ceremony of the Olympic Games. Personally, I'd rather count down to the end of the closing ceremony, or better still, pretend they're not happening at all.





The shops on Oxford Street were our next call. Kati had a very successful afternoon's shopping. I didn't manage to find the grey jumper of my dreams, but shall persevere. We finally had to come back to the hotel because my feet had had enough.

Tomorrow morning, we're up early and off to New York!